OOOHHH OUCH! I’m sunburnt. A quick jump into the water at the beach and it was all over.
I took my old surfboard out for a spin. Scraped off the old wax, and applied a fresh coat, all the while thinking… this is gonna give me a mean rash.
It’s been 5 years since I jumped in the water. It was nice. I guess it’s true when other surfers tell you it’s just like riding a bike – you never forget. Granted, I can’t cut back or hit the lip like I used to. But that’s totally OK with me. The main thing was that it was fun.
Will I go out again? Maybe… but probably down to ermas or sandys.
June 3rd, 2009
Tags: oldie but goodie, surfing



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